Sugo al Ragù Piceno is a Signature Meat Sauce From Marche
Photo courtesy of Francine Segan
This unique meat sauce from the Piceno province in the Marche region is worth the effort. It’s distinctive because the dish is actually a combination of two different sauces, made from three types of meats and served with pasta. One sauce is made with an assortment of pork and beef bones simmered in tomatoes, then strained and used to dress the pasta. The second sauce is a dense mix of minced beef, pork and chicken slow-cooked in wine.
The pasta is first tossed with the bone-infused tomato sauce. Once it’s plated and topped with a rich minced meat(s) sauce, the result is multiple levels of flavor. It is extraordinary from the first bite.
This dish is usually made with maccheroni di Campofiglione, thin maccheroncini made with a hefty amount of eggs — a specialty of the town of Campofilone in the Marche region since at least the 17th century. This special egg pasta really absorbs the first sauce, making a rich base for the finely minced meats to come.
Interestingly, because they’re so egg-rich, this type of maccheroncini can be cut only a millimeter (1/32 inch) thick. When cooked, the pasta doubles in volume and wonderfully absorbs any type of sauce. The medieval town of Campofilone even has a maccheroncini festival traditionally held on the first weekend of August, which features lively demos and lots of tastings.
If you like, do as they do in Italy, and serve the pasta accompanied with a small plate of whole dried chili pepper and tiny scissors so everyone can customize their own pinch of heat.
Serves 8 to 10
For the first sauce:
Peel the onion and cut into quarters. Stick cloves into the onion. Saute the onion quarters in oil with the celery, carrot and bones until the vegetables are very soft. Add the bay leaf, nutmeg to taste, and tomatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for at least 3 hours. Strain the sauce, discarding the bones and vegetables.
For the second sauce:
Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil with the garlic, celery, carrots and rosemary until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken liver and gizzards and saute until they pink, then add the ground pork and beef. Stir until well combined, breaking up any large pieces with a wooden spoon. Add the wine and simmer for about 30 minutes. Add a few tablespoons of the strained first sauce, and simmer for another 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
To serve:
Cook the pasta until al dente, drain, and toss in the first sauce, until the sauce is well absorbed. Using a large fork, twirl portions onto the serving plates. Top with a ladleful or two of the second sauce and sprinkle with grated cheese. Serve with a plate of dried chili peppers and small scissors, if your guests are into it.
