Milan may have the Vogue New Talent show but in a neat sartorial twist, ½ûÂþÌìÌà fashion designers have been given a platform for the first time in the UK. Held alongside London Fashion Week as part of Moda½ûÂþÌìÌÃaLondon, the ½ûÂþÌìÌà Cultural Institute premiered its design talent showcase, The ½ûÂþÌìÌà Collective. Held at the gracious HQ in Belgravia, the weekend promises to grow into a prestigious event for ½ûÂþÌìÌà fashion in London. As director of the Institute Carlo Presenti explained, ‘I hope it marks the first in an annual celebration of ½ûÂþÌìÌà style. We need to nurture its potential so that it may become an institution, on a par with London Fashion Fringe.’
From left to right: Designer Nico Didonna; Christopher Ciccone; Carlo Presenti, Director of the ½ûÂþÌìÌà Cultural Institute, London - Photo by Salvatore Mancuso, for the ½ûÂþÌìÌà Cultural Institute
Featuring a chic cross-section from upcoming to internationally known, Laura Tardelli - wife of football legend Marco – and Madonna’s brother Christopher Ciccone, were also on show in their latest creative guises.
CHRISTOPHER CICCONE - FOOTWEAR
Background: Kicking off the weekend in a distinctive style debut, Ciccone’s bold designs danced down the runway. From his usual forays across painting and photography to interior and furniture design, Slovakian shoe company Novesta approached him as an ‘artist’ to ‘think outside the shoe box.’ Combining traditional styles for men, women and children with leather, rubber and canvas, the result equals funky, functional footwear.
Collection Highlights: Racy rubber boots to leisure-wear and leather shoes for women; men’s boot classics given two-tone and 3D effect; children’s cute and colourful lace-ups.
Design Inspirations: Like his older sister Madonna – whose tours he often helped as Creative Director and subject of his best-seller - Ciccone himself is no stranger to reinvention. ‘I guess shoe design is not so different from designing a home, a stage or a piece of furniture. People have to be able to live in them.’ His plan is to expand into a global lifestyle brand. ‘The great thing about doing shoes is that potentially everyone could have a pair. When you're doing art, there's only one.’
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Shoes by Christopher Ciccone; Dresses by Nico Didonna - Photo by Salvatore Mancuso, for the ½ûÂþÌìÌà Cultural Institute
NICO DIDONNA – WOMENSWEAR
Background: Finding affordable menswear lacking on arrival in the UK 25 years ago, Nico made his mark with his sharp suited men’s range in 2004. He then turned his trademark versatility to women’s wear and now runs both lines from his studio/boutique in London’s Soho.
The London College of Fashion tailoring graduate has shown at London Fashion Week several times. Fans of the stand-out brand include Nancy Dell’Olio and Maria Kouka and Harry Potter film characters have been costumed by Apulia’s Nico. With his fresh and modern twist on classics he’s one to keep watching.
Collection Highlights: Just some of his innovative designs with high wearability and wow factor: Grecian meets origami asymmetric dresses to be worn in several ways; a sweeping halter-neck gown meets trousers mix; a dramatic monochromatic to deep sea blue palette.
Design Inspirations: ‘For 2013, it’s elemental – air, earth, fire, water. From fluid silk split palazzo pants and reversible top in oceanic shades to sand-like crepes in Grecian style gowns. Being ½ûÂþÌìÌÃ, I select fabrics that inspired me first and create my collection around them. I like to dress strong individuals with joie de vivre…who like? Johnny Depp and Tilda Swinton. I also admire designer Jean Franco Ferre for his influential clean geometry of line.’
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4D FOR FASHION CORSETRY: ‘Oh My Corset!’
Background: They wish to be known collectively as 4D (meaning 4 Donne) but the designer happens to be one Laura Tardelli ( in the picture from left to right, Christina and Laura, half of 4D). The concept is high-end fashion corsets. Traditionally crafted in a Piedmont factory – one of only two specialists in Italy - the surprise is in the fabrics: ultra-luxe, 3D, lightweight and high-tech – as used in extreme sports to Formula 1 – with couture detailing.
Already a known brand, international stockists include the boutiques Gio Moretti and Super, both Milan; Eleonora in Rome, Giglio in Palermo and Facchini in Forte dei Marm - with the latest concession set to open on London’s King’s Road.
Collection Highlights: Dressy black evening corsets – strapless to lace-sleeved; minimalist to metallic and jewel studded; cream bridal bodices; hot orange structured corset dresses.
Design Inspirations: Collectively, the quartet says that they include the women of the South of Italy: ‘we used the pillow lace technique traditional to the region, and craftswomen in Apulia handmade woven inserts on some fabrics.’ Laura, originally a textile designer, adds that Marco indirectly inspired her body-conscious designs as she came to follow his sport over their 20 year marriage. She dedicates the collection to her main muse, her mother. ‘When she was in hospital with cancer, she still wished to look beautiful. It inspired the corset collection through my mother’s idea: ‘feminine in the face of adversity.’
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CLAUDIA LIGARI – WOMENSWEAR & MENS WEAR
Background: Launching her label in 2011, Claudia left study in Milan eight years ago to train under the late Alexander McQueen. The high street label Karen Millen then beckoned. At present she combines designing for this as well as for her own collection. Now known for minimalist, no-fuss pieces, the feel is urban and easy-wear. Interchangeable unisex wear is the latest inclusion and this season sees the launch of her capsule menswear range.
Collection Highlights: Claudia’s practical pieces – in myriad black and white shades - boast architectural lines in fine fabrics: linen and cotton fusion for dresses and tunics; rubbery leather jackets and bags to mens’ simple bomber jackets and sports shorts.
Design Inspirations: ‘I don’t have a specific inspiration each season as I like to keep it timeless. That said, my themes for 2013 are the clash of practical sport fabrics with the luxury of silk; collaborations with textile artists; simple, singular non-colours – I’m not much in love with print. I’m really inspired by this ½ûÂþÌìÌà Collective event. Italy needs to give similar space and support to young designers!’
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MASSIMO CASAGRANDE – MCG collection: MEN’S SHIRTS
Background: Having studied at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan, this designer/stylist now tutors at the Istituto UK campus in London. In between he worked for the Versace design team under Donatella - across Versus menswear, Versace sport and jeans. In his reinterpretation of the classic shirt, Massimo engineers a specialist range melding retro utilitarianism of the ’30s and ‘60s with contemporary fabric fusions.
Collection Highlights: Deceptively understated yet given to detail, crisp exemplars include double layer fronts and sleeves; optical illusions for a linear, figure-flattering silhouette.
Design Inspirations: ‘Very much art inspired past to present – by the likes of Constantin Bracusi, Irving Penn and Cy Twombly. I also collect works by Young British Artists such as Tracey Emin. The texture of sculpture also informs: Giacometti to Rebecca Warren. Shirts are a continuous work in progress. What next? Maybe sexy Jane Birkin style womens’ tailored shirts along the line…’
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ANTONELLO TEDDE – BAGS
Background: Antonello’s luxury ethical handbags are adored by Livia Firth and stocked in 30 outlets worldwide - from New York to Tokyo, London to Portofino. Using traditional factory looms in his native Sardinia, Antonello incorporates organic yarns and dyes that are extracted from plants and flowers local to the region. A London College of Fashion graduate, Antonello has variously worked in bag design for Mulberry, Paul Smith and Fendi. He recently exhibited at London and Milan Fashion Weeks.
Collection Highlights: Every one’s a winner for any outfit, this season in vibrant red, green, salmon and aqua marine. Shapes follow suit from cute box clutch to shoulder style; carry tote to big beach bag.
Design Inspirations: ‘My original inspiration was seeing Fendi’s silk ‘Capri’ bag in ‘cartolina’ or postcard style. I feel it led to my rediscovering these traditional woven textiles as part of my heritage. The textile itself always inspires me; the styles then follow: inspired by drawings of my homeland and its surrounding scenery. My bags are if you like, my postcard from Sardinia!’
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CARLOTTA GHERZI – LEGWEAR: MyLOVEMyLEGGINGS
Background: From Lombardia by way of Russia, Carlotta has previously enjoyed nine London Fashion Week shows with her mainline label ‘Carlotta Gherzi for Sado’. So popular was one part of this range – high-end leggings – this season her unique take on shape/outer wear or ‘transformable’ clothes as in both slimming and day into evening - becomes the focus of her capsule collection.
Collection Highlights: Up close you see the superior fabric and fit of this staple garment. With textures from pleated wool, silk and antique lace in black with detailed edge to Carlotta’s unique signature prints.
Design Inspirations: ‘First, leggings are my favourite item – I live in them, as does my mother and grandmother! Scuba-diving informs the contoured shape I create. As an ½ûÂþÌìÌÃ, I like quality and love fine fabrics. This season, I’ve developed quirky prints: an art deco/digital fusion and one based on fossils with ‘Avatar’ film influenced colours!’
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EVA CAMMARATA – KNITWEAR
Background: Despite her young years, Eva’s fledgling company already runs four eco-conscious lines: knitwear, tailoring, Pret a Porter and bridal couture. Knits use ethical yarns derived from milk. Tailored pieces add contrast and are produced using organic cottons or silks. Tactility, originality and sustainability meld together as one. Following fashion BA study in Italy, Sicilian Eva gained a Masters in Knitwear Design in the UK.
Collection Highlights: Knitwear that hugs the silhouette as a tailored garment, revolutionising the typical concept of knitwear as ‘winter wrap-up’. The perfect example: a 70's maxi dress colour- referencing the era in brown merino wool and gold lurex. ‘Secret’ flattering front ribs are slimming while a back mini skirt and a leather harness – with matching trilby hat – kills the notion of knitwear as twee forever!
Design Inspirations: ‘The great divas and stars of the 70's, especially in music: Donna Summers with a rock and roll twist. My style icons are the Fontana sisters. From a little ½ûÂþÌìÌà town they exported ½ûÂþÌìÌà Couture worldwide. Like them, I'd love to dress the jet set - as well as women from different backgrounds. I believe that fashion is the most democratic art of all.’
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