Milan Fashion Week started in earnest yesterday with shows by Giorgio Armani, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli’s younger line, Just Cavalli.
After some unpleasant wrangling on show times earlier in September—Dolce & Gabbana changed the date of their show to avoid it coinciding with Jewish Yom Kippur, but in doing so risked an overlap with Krizia and Cavalli’s shows, thus requiring some last-minute calendar alchemy by the Milan Fashion Chamber—the runs went on without a (visible) hitch.
Just Cavalli was among the first big names to take to the catwalk, with an all-out sexy show that celebrated the brand’s tenth anniversary. Never subtle or understated, Cavalli was true to form this year, sending out the first girl in a sheer pink confection which proudly displayed the words ‘I have been touched by Cavalli’ right across the waist. The designer went for a sultry punk look, with lots of distressed denim, pointy bras and see through tops, barely tempered by the odd delicate, whimsical (but rigorously transparent) dress.
Denim reigned supreme at D&G, Dolce & Gabbana’s youth line, who went for the stylish cowgirl look. Think rolled denim shorts, minuscule denim skirts, denim dresses with plenty of ruffles and even a tiny, chic denim pullubover—all worn with suede cowboy boots with fringes (and if that sounds a somewhat nonsensical outfit to wear in the height of summer, hey! hot feet are a small price for fashionistas to pay so they can be right on trend).
The look of choice at Krizia was more grown-up and sophisticated, with plenty of cream and black dresses enlivened by sequins and eye-catching prints (including the house’s obligatory panther). But don’t be fooled to think that grown-up means something a normal adult woman could easily wear—some of Krizia’s dresses were so short they nearly allowed glimpses of underwear, and the long ones were embellished by princess-at-the-ball-like ruffles and ruches.
High hemlines were also de rigueur at Prada’s quirky, dream-like show. Shorts, skirts and barely-there briefs were paired with glamorous, crystal-encrusted tops and tailored coats, with the odd lilac and blue occasionally breaking up the streaming ocean of silver, black, and black and white prints.
But it was the veteran of fashion, Giorgio Armani, who stole the day with bright, extraordinary creations.
Armani is recovering from hepatitis but that didn’t stop the 75-year-old designer from putting on a great show. His collection managed to be feminine and geometric at the same time, and always, always sophisticated. Bold, structured lines provided the framework, which Armani embellished with plenty of loose-fitting pieces and lots of fluff (think bubble skirts and ruffles, but also defined shoulders and high belts).
Either or both shoulders were often bare, legs were very much on show, and tops were slashed to the midriff but Armani’s pieces looked precious and elegant, rather than tacky and suggestive. This is partly thanks to the fabrics of choice—stiff silk was a favourite for dresses— coupled with chic geometric motifs and jewel hues—rich blues and greens, silver and ruby, with the odd, dazzling touch of hot pink. And, guess what? There wasn’t a single scrap of Armani’s one-time favourite beige in sight.
So what are the hot trends that emerged from Milan’s first big day? Ultrashort is definitely in—as in short skirts, short dresses, short anything. The body is very much on show. But the sexy look is softened by ruffles, ruches and reasonably-heeled shoes (or even flat sandals, as seen on the Armani catwalk); played down with the use of bright summer colours; and made more sophisticated by pairing loose and sculptured, structured elements.
